To say Vino Volta winemaker Garth Cliff is passionate concerning the Swan Valley might be an understatement.
In reality, Mr Cliff’s enthusiasm is such that he believes the valley must be spoken of in the identical breath because the world’s nice warm-climate wine areas.
It’s a view developed over twenty years within the wine trade throughout Australia and the US, and a eager eye for a way website and elegance can work collectively to provide one thing distinctive.
Mr Cliff’s profession started round 2000, taking him from the Hunter Valley to South Australia’s Stonehaven and Tintara, with stints in Napa and central California.
He joined Houghton in 2009, the place he pushed to make premium wines from the Swan Valley and close by Gingin and Higher Swan vineyards.
“Over time, I noticed the potential of parcels of chenin blanc, and later grenache,” Mr Cliff informed Enterprise Information.
“The goal was at all times to problem that typical knowledge that Australian wine is simply about cool local weather.”
By 2018, as change loomed at Houghton, Mr Cliff began growing wines underneath the Vino Volta label. The primary releases arrived in 2019, and the philosophy was clear: heat climates can produce world-class wines should you match the suitable varieties with the suitable soils and winery age.
“The Swan Valley is heat to scorching, certain, however there are many different warm-climate areas world wide making nice wine,” Mr Cliff mentioned. “The secret is discovering good terroir, the suitable soil and selection combos, and dealing with that, not towards it.”
Vino Volta sources fruit from a mixture of leased vineyards and unbiased growers, with grenache thriving on the gravelly soils close to the Darling Scarp. Chenin blanc, a range Mr Cliff champions, typically comes from loamier websites.
Whereas the Swan Valley types the core, he additionally seems to heat areas close by, such because the Ferguson Valley within the Geographe wine area for dolcetto, and infrequently the Perth Hills for varieties that profit from barely cooler circumstances.
Within the vineyard, Mr Cliff blends conventional strategies with low-intervention practices.
“We embrace wild yeast and don’t use enzymes,” he mentioned.
“When you return thirty or forty years, that was just about the norm in Australia.
“We’ve saved the sound winemaking ideas however use them to make wines that categorical their selection and place.
“Sulphur is used judiciously, with the goal of preserving the wine’s integrity slightly than manipulating its character.”
Mr Cliff resists extremes in pure winemaking, preferring a method that builds complexity with out sacrificing stability. Pores and skin contact, larger solids, and longer maceration are used so as to add texture and savouriness.
“There’s extra to balancing a wine than simply sugar, acid and alcohol,” Mr Cliff mentioned.
“Flavour and savouriness, as an example, are simply as essential.”
The vary consists of textured whites akin to chenin blanc, and aromatic, medium-bodied reds akin to grenache and dolcetto. Throughout the portfolio, there’s a constant thread of generosity and complexity, underpinned by a respect for fruit purity.
Vino Volta Pezzonovante grenache 2023 ($50)
I like this instance of an previous bush vine-generated Swan Valley grenache. It was an excellent 12 months, and it has been captured so properly. The nostril is very perfumed with scented rose petals and raspberry. Within the vineyard, it was naturally fermented with some entire bunches utilizing a pinot method after which matured solely in previous oak. So, that is about expressing the fruit, which it does fairly fantastically. The tannins have a level of flexibleness and but they harness completely and form the palate by way of to its sustained end. A primary-rate wine.
Rating: 96/100
Cellar: Six years
Vino Volta Funky and Fearless chenin blanc 2023 ($35)
A primary-rate instance of chenin blanc, a range the Swan Valley does so properly. The fruit comes from Rockets Winery, planted by Tony Mann a few years in the past. A mix of entire bunch urgent with a really excessive solids element, including deep, wealthy complexity, with pure fermentation additional contributing to that layered really feel. It has had a while in older barriques, and the result’s a mixture of citrusy, barely tropical passionfruit character with somewhat lamb’s wool-like texture. A delicate trace of toast and a raise of citrus present a compelling mixture. A brilliant wine.
Rating: 95/100
Cellar: 5 years
Vino Volta Sole Bambino vermentino 2024 ($32)
That is sourced from the Geographe wine area and is a barely fuller, richer and extra complicated model of this well-known Italian selection. On the nostril, punchy, spicy apple crumble fruit characters emerge, whereas on the palate, there’s richness and depth, albeit held with typical vermentino precision. There’s a dry savouriness on the palate with just a bit creamy, lemony, nearly meringue-like richness including complexity. It’s a tidy little wine and nice with meals.
Rating: 92/100
Cellar: 4 years
• Ray Jordan is one in all Australia’s most skilled and revered wine journalists, contributing to newspapers and magazines over greater than 40 years. In 2017 he co-authored The Manner it Was: The Historical past of the early years of the Margaret River Wine Area
